Just as the pandemic was kicking off, Wicked Butcher opened in Fort Worth. The restaurant won over locals and made best-of lists. And now, the DRG Concepts restaurant group has brought Wicked Butcher to Dallas.
"We're a modern take on the Texas steakhouse," says Blake, our server. But what exactly does that mean, I ask Manuel De Martino, vice president of operations.
"We have other influences, such as Asian influences in our seafood," he says as he shows me the meat dry aging room. Nearby, a butcher perfectly slices sea bass. Out front, a sign reads, "Purveyors of fine cuts." So I was expecting to see premium steaks, but pleasantly surprised to see beautiful fish.
"Those are fine cut cuts, too," explains Demetrius Anagnostis, director of operations. "Fine cuts can be anything. When you came in, you saw us cutting a sea bass."
"In Fort Worth," he continues, "our sea bass outsells every cut of meat, because of the filet." The filet, Anagnostis adds, is always a big seller — pretty much anywhere and everywhere.
I like certain little touches — and Wicked Butcher has them in spades: Riedel glassware, Laguiole knives, waiters in Chuck Taylors and bow ties, truffle-infused negronis and David Bowie playing in the background.
I also like focus. And Wicked Butcher is very, very focused. The meat and seafood-centric menu is a single page. It knows what it does and does it very well. But there are some surprises: a truly fantastic beef Wellington. The pastry's softness is only surpassed by that of the meat. The Wicked Butcher's addition of spinach to the classic recipe is welcomed. The dressed oysters were served either savory or acidic, and I loved the contrast with each shell. I could eat the corn crème brûlée with dinner or as a dessert — I just want to eat it again. But I felt that about everything I ate at Wicked Butcher. I will be back.
This is the restaurant's first Dallas location, and if all goes well, further expansion seems inevitable. To Plano? Frisco? Fingers crossed.
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