Appearances can be deceiving. Inside, Trick Rider classic steakhouse vibes. Located at Omni PGA Frisco Resort & Spa, Trick Rider is cowboy-inspired: Staff wear Western-style shirts; above the bar, there is a 16-foot-long horse made from 4,075 crystals; the walls are decorated with framed pistols; and on the menu, there are choice cuts. The Pavlovian response is "Texas" and "steakhouse." That response is correct, but Trick Rider is much, much more than that.
Decked out in a black ball cap and a pristine white chef's coat, Executive Chef Joe Riojas is in the kitchen, sprinkling salt and pepper on a steak. This isn't the first time I've met him — our paths crossed months earlier at Chef's For Farmers in Dallas. He was broiling Gulf oysters. They were spectacular.
"There are memories I have of food here in Texas," Riojas tells me. "But here, we make the dishes unique and put our spin on them."
There is a refreshing lack of b.s. from Riojas, a former Marine combat medic and current Celina resident. The same goes for his food. "My philosophy is to use high-quality, simple ingredients — and let them shine," he says.
"But here, we make the dishes unique and put our spin on them."
Not Your Typical Texas Steakhouse
Let's get this straight. Being "just" a Texas steakhouse is totally fine! I am Texas-born and raised, and grew up going to Texas steakhouses. And Trick Rider does The Lone Star State proud — but, like Riojas, with its own, somewhat unexpected, spin.
But the more you know about Riojas, the more sense it makes. This ain’t his first rodeo: Before Trick Rider, Riojas cut his teeth as sous chef at Uchi, James Beard Award-winning chef Tyson Cole's Japanese and sushi restaurant, before making the leap to Zaytinya in Frisco (requiescat in pace) under Michelin Star chef Jose Andres, and then to Carbone Dallas. These global flavors make subtle and welcomed appearances throughout Trick Rider's menu.
Global Influences You Can Taste
I wasn't surprised to see Riojas' impressive collection of Japanese culinary knives. The country has made excellent knives for over a thousand years. I am surprised when he says, "I love yuzu kosho, it's my favorite Japanese condiment and we make our own in-house, fermenting it for ten days."
Yuzu kosho is made from yuzu peel, salt and peppers, and the resulting paste is a symphony of spice and acidity and pairs perfectly with the fat in the tuna tartare. The Japanese influences don't stop there: The artichoke is cooked over bichotan white charcoal, robata-style, and then served with Japanese mayonnaise. (Riojas is also a big fan of Japanese mayonnaise, which is different from American-style mayo, because it uses only the yolks and eschews distilled vinegar for rice vinegar.)
The beet salad draws on Mediterranean influences, with yogurt balancing out the acidity in the tangy apples, and that continues in the eggplant, with labneh, chickpea and tomato — one of the best things on the menu. There's a must-order whole branzino with chimichurri and aleppo. More Italian flourishes with a brilliant burrata and perfectly grilled calamari.
I'll say it again, for those in the back: I wasn't expecting any of this, especially in a restaurant where the napkins look like bandanas. But that's what makes the incorporation of the influences so darn brilliant.
And yet, there are flavors of home: The wedge salad uses the best Texas pecans, and the steaks are big and aged and flavorful, and comforting sides like whipped potatoes and mac and cheese.
But maybe all is what makes Trick Rider so brilliant? Like the state itself, there are more and more global influences — and Texas, like this steakhouse, is better for that.
For Those With Dietary Restrictions
The Trick Rider menu clearly shows which dishes are vegan, vegetarian and gluten-friendly — and many of these are the among the best the restaurant offers.
How To Get There
Located at Omni PGA Frisco Resort & Spa, Trick Rider is a 15-to-30-minute drive from Legacy West, depending on traffic. Trick Rider alone is worth a visit, but can certainly be combined with a day of golf or even a staycation at the resort. The restaurant is ideal for date night, special occasions or even business meals. It’s great. Go.
Make a reservation.
We thank Trick Rider for hosting and treating us!
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